Skin Brightening Agents



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WHITE PAPER - Skin Brightening Agents (click for full text)

Skin pigmentation is a natural process which provides the skin with partial protection from sun damage. Pigmentation of an irregular nature can be stimulated by years of sun exposure or by hormonal conditions including the use of birth control pills, pregnancy, and hormone therapy. Hyperpigmentation is a condition where an excess of melanin, the dark pigment that produces skin color, forms deposits resulting in dark patches of skin. Includes descriptions of agents which will lighten the visible appearance of hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation is a condition where an excess of melanin, the dark pigment that produces skin color, forms deposits resulting in dark patches of skin. Sun damage and the resulting abnormal keratinization is the primary factor in the appearance of "age spots" and many other varieties of hyperpigmentation. Hormones and certain medications can also play a role.

Normal skin color is formed by melanin, a natural pigment that also determines hair and eye color. In the skin, the enzyme tyrosinase biochemically converts the amino acid tyrosine into melanin. Hyperpigmentation occurs when too much melanin is produced and forms deposits in the skin.

The cells that make pigment are called melanocytes. They are located at the bottom of the epidermis. Melanocytes produce melanosomes, which are passed onto other cells of the epidermis and make their way up to the top layer of skin. Synthesis of melanin occurs exclusively in melanosomes.

Hyperpigmentation is a common clinical condition for which many people seek remedies because they view it as being cosmetically displeasing. It can affect people of all skin colors and races, and tends to increase with age.

The use of a pigment-lightening agent, such as hydroquinone will lighten the visible appearance of hyperpigmentation. Hydroquinone inhibits the skin's production of tyrosinase that is used in the formation of melanin. The result is a reduction of pigmentation within newly produced cells. In time, these cells move to the skins surface and a gradual reduction of hyperpigmentation will become visible. Daily or twice daily application of a 2% hydroquinone gel can provide an effective technique for reducing the formation of clusters or concentrations of skin melanin, or hyperpigmentation.

Kojic acid is a skin lightener produced from fungus. Discovered in Japan in 1989, it has been used with excellent results to lighten skin and reduce brown spots. It blocks the formation of melanin pigment in skin cells. When combined with other chemical agents such as glycolic acid or hydroquinone, Kojic acid improves its effectiveness by as much as 13%, with a total patient improvement score of 60% by adding Kojic acid to the preparation. When Kojic acid is applied to skin before exposure to sunlight (UV radiation), it dramatically prevents wrinkling and fibrosis of the lower dermis. Fibrosis of the deep dermis leads to deep wrinkle development. This prevention of severe photoaging is one of the benefits of applying Kojic acid to the skin before sunlight exposure.

REFERENCES
Gerson, Joel. "Milady's Standard Textbook for Professional Estheticians." Milady Publishing Company, New York, 1992;Gilchrest, Barbara A, "Photodamage." Blackwell Science, Inc., Cambridge, MA, 1995; Hearning, Vicent, PhD, National Institutes of Heal, Talk at the Cosmeceutical Conference, New Jersey, 1997; Lees, Mark. "Milday's Skin Care Reference Guide." Milady Publishing Company, New York, 1994; H. Mitani, Ikoshiishi, T. Sumita, and T. Imanari, "Prevention of Photo Damage in the Hairless Mouse Dorsal Skin by Kojic Acid as an Iron Chelator," Eur J Pharmacol 2001, Jan 5;411 (1-2); 169-174; T Novotny, P Rauko, M Abdel-Hamid, and A Vachalkova, "Kojic Acid -- a New Leading Molecule for a Preparation of Compounds with Anti-Neoplastic Potential;" Neoplasma 1999;46(2):89-92; M Uher, M Chalabala, J Cismarik, Ceska Slov, "Kojic Acid and its Derivatives as Potential Therapeutic Agents;" Farm 200 Nov; 49(6):288-98; A Perez-Bernal, MA Munoz-Perez and F Camcho, "Management of Facial Hyperpigmentation;" Am J Clin Dermatol 2000 Sep-Oct; 1(5):261-8; Jt Lim, "Treatment of Melasma using Kojic Acid in a Gel containing Hydroquinone and Glycolic Acid;" Dermatol Surg 1999 April;25(4):282-4; C Contellessa, K Peris, MT Onorati, MC Fargnoli and S Chimenti, "The use of Chemical Peelings in the Treament of Different Coetaneous Hyperpigmentations;" Dematol Surg 1999 Jun; 25(6):450-4.

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