Sun Damage and Sunscreens



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WHITE PAPER - Sun Damage and Sunscreens (click for full text)

Although sunlight is essential for human life, daily exposure to the sun over a lifetime is a major cause of skin damage, including wrinkling and skin cancer. Many of the skin changes attributed to aging are, in fact, signs of sun-induced skin damage. Sunscreens work by scattering, absorbing or reflecting the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays. Sunlight exposes people to two kinds of UV light: UVA and UVB. Virtually all sunscreens provide some level of protection against UV rays.

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a well-documented health hazard and a significant factor in premature photoaging, which can include wrinkles, dark blotches, freckles, leathery texture, and loss of elasticity.

The solar spectrum is divided into the following key regions:

Visible Light (400-760nm) -- an insignificant role in photodamage.

UVA (320-400nm) -- 1,000 time weaker than UVB, but 100 times greater in quantity.

UVB (290-320nm) -- the most potent to reach the earth's surface, thought to cause a majority of photodamage.

UVC (270-290 nm) -- absorbed in the earth's atmosphere.

When sun shines on skin, the epidermis absorbs the short UVB rays. These generate oxygen-free radicals that can destroy and mutate cells and even cause skin cancer. The long UVA rays go deep into the skins dermas, and even through skin. These rays go thirty to forty times deeper than UVB rays eventually destroying the collagen and skin elastin.

Research has shown that oxygen free radicals are involved in cutaneous sun damage. They are like indiscriminate bombs, destroying and/or mutating anything in their way, including collagen, elastin, proteoglycan, and cells. Vitamin C and E are effective antioxidants when applied topically and inhibit UVB damage to the skin, with Vitamin E particularly effective in this regard. Study further shows that vitamin C augments the UVB protection provided by vitamin E and a UVB sunscreen. Vitamin C, however, was more effective than E in protecting against UVA-mediated skin damage.

SPF sunscreen numbers only indicate the amount of time one can stay in the sun without burning. The application of an SPF 15 sunscreen should provide protection about 15 times longer than no sunscreen at all. SPF protection does not increase proportionally with a designated SPF number. SPF 30, for example, absorbs 97 percent of sun burning rays, while an SPF of 15 indicates 93 percent absorption. SPF numbers lower than 15 probably won't offer enough protection, while those higher than 30 may not offer any additional benefits.

SPF is only a measure of UVB protection. Until the advent of recently patented technologies, so single sunscreen or sunblock existed that provided both substantial UVA and UVB protection without turning white. The FDA has approved avobenzone or Butyl Methnoxydiben zolymethane, known as Parsol 1789, at 3% or less to provide UVA protection. Zinc oxide also provides protection by forming an opaque film over the skin that reflects and scatters most of the UV rays. When applied thickly, the skin will not burn or tan. However, these components may also stop perspiration, so it is best used only on a small area such as lips, ears, or nose.

Many sunscreens combine both chemical and physical sunscreens and vitamins to enhance a product's SPF abilities.

REFERENCESBlack, HS, "Photochemistry Photobiology," 1987; Cancer Society of New Zealand, "Lifestyle and the Sun," 1996; Cancer Journal for Clinicians, March/April 1976; Dial, William, "Cosmetic Dermatology," Duke University, Nov. 1996; Elson, Melvin L, "Evaluation and Treatment of the Aging Face," Springer-Verlag, NY, 1995; FDA/Scientists Sharon Miller, Schott Hamilton and Howard Cyr, PhD, 1996; FTC, "Consumer's Guide to Sunscreens," Bureau of Consumer Protection Office of Consumer & Business Education, 1996; Gilchrest, Barbara A, "Photodamage," Blackwell Science, Cambridge, MA, 1995; Hearing, Vincent, PhD, National Institute of Health, Cosmeceutical Conference, Jan. 1997.; Pauly, Gilles and Pauly, Marc, "Immunoprotection in Daily-Use Cosmetics," Cosmetics & Toiletries, May 96; San Diego Earth Times, "New Sunscreens: Protection from Damaging Rays," The American Dermatol, Aug. 1997; Lavker et al, J Am Acad Dermatol, 1995; Lowe, et al, J Invest Dermatol, 1995; Lavker, R.M. et al, "Photochemistry and Photogiology," 1995; Autier et al, Int J Cancer, 1994; Stern et al, N Engl J Med, 1997.

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